Think the Earth

Back to Table of Contents Until Costa Rica began to focus on ecotourism

Costa Rica has beautiful coastlines facing the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean, and is adjacent to the Republic of Nicaragua in the North and Panama in the South. Its national territory is a bit smaller than Shikoku and Kyushu islands of Japan put together, measuring 51,100 square kilometers, of which one-fourth has been designated as natural parks and natural reserves, rendering it a treasure box of biodiversity where approximately 87,000 species equivalent to 5% of all living species on Earth inhabit.

Idyllic scenery of farmlands taken from the bus window

In the beginning of the 16th century when the Spanish came ashore, it is said that 99.8% of the land was covered in forests. It became an independent nation of the Republic of Costa Rica in 1838, and since the latter half of the 19th century, cultivation of coffee beans and bananas flourished, resulting in the loss of one-fourth of its forests by 1950. Furthermore, approximately half of the forests were lost between 1950 and 1985 due to rapid population growth, development of farmland for livestock, and industrialization.

Meanwhile, there was a global movement in support of ecological conservation. NGOs and scientists from Europe and North America began to pay close attention to Costa Rica as it had a globally rare ecosystem, embarking on conservation activities. The government of Costa Rica, too, began to drive ecotourism forward promoting its abundant nature/biodiversity in order to establish a stable economic bedrock that would help strike a balance against exports of products such as coffee and bananas, which are easily influenced by fluctuations in international prices. So Costa Rica has continued to develop as a nation aspiring for an integration of conservation of natural resources + establishment of tourism industry + promotion of regional economy. And now, it has become a destination where people can enjoy ecotourism, welcoming 1.9 million travelers from all over the world (as of 2007). This figure amounts to more than one-third its population.

Back to Table of Contents Fog-shrouded Monteverde

The main street in Santa Elena.

I arrived in Santa Elena, a town that serves as the gateway to Monteverde, after traveling long distance, for approximately five hours, by bus from the capital, San Jose on roads, which along the way became unpaved, rugged dirt paths. By the way, Monteverde is not a name of a town. It refers to the entire area, and Santa Elena, a town at the foothills of the mountains, serves as a base for many tourists.

The reason why this region is said to be an advanced region for ecotourism dates back to the 1950s. Quakers, a Christian religious denomination, immigrated from the US around that time after refusing to serve in the US military during the North Korean War. The Quakers settled in this region, calling it "Monteverde" (meaning "green mountain" in Spanish). Many people I met in Monteverde have spoke about the presence of the Quakers as being one key reason why the forests in this region have been protected; although the Quakers raised livestock, they left a portion of the virgin forest untouched.

What made Monteverde globally famous was the discovery of a toad that only lived in this area at that time, the Golden Toad (Bufo Periglenes). As a result, many biologists and people from NGOs from all over the world flocked to this region in the late 1960s to the 1970s. Their research unveiled the presence of a rich ecosystem with rare organisms in the globally precious tropical cloud forests* of Monteverde leading to wide-scale efforts to protect this stretch of land.

*Tropical cloud forests: Tropical cloud forests are located in high altitudes of the tropical regions. It is immersed in thick fog throughout the year, maintaining a humidity of nearly 100%. Enticed by the name, "tropical" and paying a visit imagining being greeted by a scorching sun, you will find that your expectations have been betrayed as you shiver with cold (average temperatures are 15-22 degrees Celsius). One of the key characteristics of the tropical cloud forests is the abundance of vegetation. As humidity is very high, you will find that there are many species of epiphytic plants such as orchids, ananas (plants in the pineapple or Bromeliad family), mushroom beds and mosses that have absorbed moisture from the air growing densely on the trunks of trees, leaving a very strong impression of a forest layered on top of another layer of forest.

Astonishingly, there are approximately 3,000 species of plants in Monteverde, of which over 500 are orchids.

Back to Table of Contents Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve - run by parents of local college students

There are a few well known reserves in Monteverde - the "Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve" and the "Children's Eternal Rain Forest" - and each is managed and operated respectively by a private research institution and an NGO. And one we can't forget is the "Santa Elena Rainforest Reserve". It is known as a pioneer among natural reserves managed by the local community. I spoke with Mr. Guillermo Vargas, a staff of the reserve, to learn more about their activities.

The entrance to the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve. A deep sylvan forest lies beyond these gates.

Guillermo works at the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve He is from Monteverde.

Please tell us about how the reserve came into being.

n the 1970s, these lands were under the jurisdiction of the Ministry of Education, and students at the Santa Elena Technological College used the reserve for practical agricultural studies. Back then, Monteverde wasn't a tourist destination like it is today. The only forest tourists visited back then was the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve, and there was only one hotel.

Afterwards, in the mid 1980s when ecotourism flourished, the school staff thought, "Could we not undertake ecotourism here like the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve has done as a business that balances tourism and forest conservation." And in 1989, three members began to operate the natural reserve. One person handled the reception, the other managed the trails, and the third person acted as the guide. The person who was the guide back then still works here.

After we officially opened in 1992, the jurisdiction of the lands changed from the Ministry of Education to the Ministry of Environment and Energy, but the management and operation is handled by the executive committee comprised of selected parents of the students of the high school. Every year seven committee members are selected and one person from among the seven will act as the representative. By the by, the land usage fee paid to the government is equivalent to one dollar per tourist. So, only one dollar of the reserve's admission charges (adult: 12 dollars, students: 6 dollars) is paid to the government, and the rest is used as resources for their activities.

Currently, 50% of the reserve's revenues is used to run the college, 40% for maintenance of the reserve, and 10% for environmental education in elementary schools.

The Santa Elena Technological College is located in town. It also serves as the information booth for the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve.

Back to Table of Contents Teaching children why forests are important

What kind of activities do you conduct in terms of environmental education for elementary school students?

Once a year we invite students from each school to the reserve. We offer them free transportation, admission, and food. And as we take them on the guided tour, we try to communicate what it means to protect the region - how we are preserving the entire region, how we don't kill animals, etc. The children go home very happy with a souvenir T-shirt in their hands. And they understand why this region is important and why it attracts tourists.

Moreover, our staff goes to the schools to conduct lectures about the environment. This project is undertaken in collaboration with the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve, Children's Eternal Rain Forest, Frog Pond (a pavilion exhibiting frogs), and the Ministry of Environment and Energy of Costa Rica. Even in Costa Rica this is the only region where private reserves are collaborating with one another to promote such a program.

"Another thing, the reserves cooperate with each other" says Guillermo. Duplicates of all the research reports created by researchers and students of each reserve are made, so that they may be shared among staff members of other reserves. And because the research results are shared, the people of the region can more effectively conserve the entire region's ecosystem.

Back to Table of Contents Welcoming interns and volunteers from all over the world

You are also very welcoming of volunteers.

Many of the volunteers are students from Costa Rica, but there are people from overseas. Usually, we have people staying with us for about 3 to 6 months, but there are some who stay for a year, and some who only stay a week. Students are always welcome.

For example, if I wanted to be a volunteer, how would I take part?

You just call us and tell us from when to when you would like to volunteer. Then we will introduce a place where you can homestay, and you pay them about 10 dollars per day. Then you just get on a bus every day and work together with the staff.

You have to be able to speak Spanish, right?

Not necessarily. There are people here who learn Spanish while volunteering. So language isn't really a problem. For example, about five years ago, I worked with 5 volunteers from Japan. They spoke neither Spanish nor English. But we worked together on the trail. We communicated using body language, so it was quite interesting. For example, if I was looking for a hammer, I would pretend to be swinging a hammer... (laugh).

Students from all over the country come here to get school credits. And there are some students who undergo training to become a guide.

The trees in these forests do not have growth rings as they have a stable growth rate due to the consistent temperatures throughout the year.

Their yellow bodies stand out in the deep green forest. Unfortunately, as I didn't run into this bird during a guided tour, I was unable to learn its name.

Back to Table of Contents A neighbor's success story

Do you think that the people who have a tourism business here understand the importance and value of Monteverde's ecosystem?

I think the level of understanding varies. But one thing that I would consider a blessing is that people who used to be in farming have now gotten involved in the tourism business, so they no longer cut trees, and the forests have had time to regenerate. Of course a portion of the trees may be cut down for tourist facilities such as zip-lines (an attraction whereby you jump from tree to tree using a cable, like Tarzan), but the forest is certainly rejuvenating. And what is more, when people find a sick animal, they call us. So I believe people are proactively trying to do their part to protect these forests.

It feels as though people in Monteverde have a higher awareness for ecotourism in comparison to other regions.

What is good about Monteverde is that the region is committed to these activities. Although the hotels in the tourist spots around the coast are owned by Americans and Germans, 80% of all businesses in Monteverde are operated by the local people. The staff in hotels in our area say to the tourists, "We, too, are involved in the preservation of the Santa Elena Rainforest Reserve."

For example, Selvatura is one of the largest tour companies around here, but 30 years ago, the owner used to work at the cheese factory. And the management of Skytrek is also from the local area. Although these people were not affluent, they borrowed money from the bank and purchased a small plot of land to start their businesses, and over the years they have become very successful. Many of these people have never even been to high school. And aside from a few, most of the hotels (there are about 250) in the area are run by the locals. They probably started with quite a small building, but today, there are a few larger hotels.

Many people in Monteverde feel first hand (as it relates to their work) that for the region natural resources equal tourism resources. And as there is a system in place to communicate this to children from an early age, this has been passed down... this, I feel, may be the reason why Monteverde is referred to as an advanced ecotourism region.

The visitor's center at the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve and the wild boar that likes to hang out under the floor.

Back to Table of Contents Ecotourism as a veteran guide sees it

Following the advice of the owner of the hostel I was staying in to "go on a guided tour if you're planning to walk around the natural reserve" I took part in the guided tour through the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve. David, a veteran guide with experience of 11 years walked us through the reserve. I interviewed him after enjoying the three-hour (it didn't feel like it was that long at all), very easy to understand, insightful tour.

David, the freelance nature conservation guide. He is also from the Monteverde region. He pointed out flowers and organisms that appeared so small we wouldn't have been able to find it without a telescope.

Back to Table of Contents Like-minded group of 100 people rather than 5 tourists lacking unity

At Monteverde, only a limited number of people is allowed in the reserve at one time. This is done to minimize impact. So only 100 - 150 people are allowed in the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve at one time.

Do you think that it would be difficult to maintain a balance between tourism and ecosystem conservation if the number of tourists continues to grow?

It is better to have an organized group of 100 people rather than 5 unorganized people. What is important is how you talk to people and what you tell them about the forest. This morning, I asked everyone on the tour to stay on the trail. And at the same time, I explained why this is important. This helps them understand. To protect this place, it's necessary to have the patience to keep saying what's important.

Back to Table of Contents Swapping rifles for telescopes

What is your definition of ecotourism?

Ecotourism is realizing tourism and at the same time conservation by the hands of the local people. You can't have conservation without the involvement of the local people. Because if you don't, then you'll end up with people who come from other areas, who are only interested about making money, who'll end up seizing resources from the forest. I have seen many tourist destinations that have been operated by a given group of people without getting everyone involved. There you have people who poach animals from the forests and sell them, who cut down trees illegally. If you get everyone involved, you could arrive at a different solution. One thing we did here at Monteverde is to offer a very good salary to people who were hunters and employ them as park rangers. They know the forest best, so they were perfect for the job. A lot of people who were hunters are now park rangers. This is one of the characteristics of ecotourism.

As he guided us through the forest, David was coaching a young trainee guide in Spanish. I thought I could envision the future of Monteverde when I thought that one day he, too, will become an excellent guide and escort the tourists through the forests.

The bus blocked the road as it got stuck in the rut in the road due to heavy rainfall on the previous day. We had no choice but to head to the entrance of the reserve on foot. To protect the ecosystem, the roads have not been paved.

Back to Table of Contents Of course not everything is ideal... Unbalance between residents < tourisms

Although Monteverde is an advanced case example, there are other examples in Costa Rica where tourism, environment, and the community's livelihood aren't necessarily in harmony. David, who has worked as a guide in regions outside of Monteverde, is concerned about the current situation.

Guanacaste, which has been registered as a UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site, is not an area that has a lot of water. But there are hotels there with Jacuzzis and bathtubs. Of course tourists don't know that water is scarce in the region, so they take baths and sit in Jacuzzis full of water. When this happens, the hotels end up using all the water available in the city, and the residents end up not having enough water for their own use.
Such problems of water shortage and trash/waste will certainly become a major issue in 15 to 20 years, or even in a shorter span of time. But these problems are occurring everywhere around the world, not just in Costa Rica.

I don't think there is anyone who travels to a tourist destination that is rich in nature and who wants to destroy the environment or the people's lives there. So, perhaps it would be good if, next time we go somewhere, we could take a moment to imagine what unknown implications there may be.

The Manual Antonio National Park is nearby Costa Rica's capital, San Jose, and is crowded with many tourists.

Back to Table of Contents Ecotourism wasn't built in a day

Having visited Monteverde and talked to people who work there, I began to see clearly the balance between environmental conservation and tourism development, and the involvement of the regional community, which are all paramount to a successful ecotourism. And at the same time, I believe that a case example such as Monteverde was only made possible due to the nation building efforts Costa Rica has made over the years. Having abolished the army, Costa Rica was able to commit the national budget, which would have been otherwise necessary to maintain national security forces, to education. And as a result, it was able to nurture a high quality, literate, multi-lingual workforce, and that is why young people of Costa Rica can work to contribute to local tourism and ecological conservation. Costa Rica has maintained amicable relations with neighboring countries through peaceful diplomacy, and has adopted a democratic electoral system free of concerns about any military coup d'etat; and because there is a stable government, tourists can travel safely. Moreover, it incorporated environmental rights in its constitution, and spearheaded with improvements in the legal system with laws such as the Environmental Basic Law, Forest Law, and Biodiversity Law, and it continues to promote policies for ecological conservation with the support of international NGOs. All of these elements are necessary aspects of nurturing ecotourism in Costa Rica.

Although there still may be many issues that must be tackled, I hope to see Costa Rica continue its challenge to remain an advanced nation in ecotourism.

"Lend a hand to Nature" - a donation box at the airport where you can donate leftover foreign currency. This too calls for help with ecological conservation.